Active|Page|default|index|||Home PAGE!||default||
`` Downs by the pond - For all  your Water Garden NeedsThe `` cool, refreshing sounds of water bring a touch of the place paradise to `` your garden. There is a place for water in each of our gardens. Tiny puddles `` of water to attract birds and butterflies, waterfalls and large Koi and `` wildlife ponds each lend a special element to the landscape.

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We have over 10 display ponds to stimulate your creativity, books on `` water gardening and a bulletin board of pounds created by our customers. `` There is sure to be something to inspire each on our visitors.

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 |24-Feb-2003|2750 Active|Page|default|services|||services||default||

Services

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Maintenance
`` Our experienced staff will be glad to handle the dirty work. Pondcleanings, `` filtration and pump setups and regularly scheduled visits are just some `` of the ways we can help!

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Pond Calls
`` Is a pond in your future? Did your new home come complete with fish and `` you're not sure what to do? Is your pond in distress? These are just a `` few of the reasons for one of our experts to visit.

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Installations
`` We are pleased to help in any way with your installation.

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|26-Feb-2003|2752 Active|Page|default|aboutus|||aboutus||default||

About us

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George `` and Loretta Downs, our owners, installed their first water garden in 1989. `` At time there were few supplies available to them, and learning was hands `` on.

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A desire was born to create a place where anyone could find a complete `` selection of pond products, so that no one would go through the same frustrating `` and expensive mistakes. The lower Willamette Valley was ready for a water `` garden specialty store, Downs By The Pond opened July 2, 1994.
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`` George and Loretta invite you to come visit
`` their dream in the making.
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`` Driving Directions ``
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|26-Feb-2003|2753 Active|Page|default|contactus|||contactus||default||

Contact us

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Come see and hear for yourself how exciting water can``be!
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Please fill out the form below and click on submit when you``are finished. We'll respond usually within 1-2 business``days.
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``Name*:
``Company:
``Email:*
``Phone:
``Comments:*
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Downs By The Pond
````86667 Bailey Hill Road
`` Eugene, OR 97405
`` Phone: (541)342-5887
``


`` Email:

`` ``sales@downsbythepond.com
`` ``loretta@downsbythepond.com

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`` ``"Driving
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Pond Tips

``
index ``
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Preparing for a Pond

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    ``
  1. Choosing a site
  2. ``
  3. The lay of the land
  4. ``
  5. Size and Shape
  6. ``
  7. Scale and perspective
  8. ``
  9. Size requirements
  10. ``
  11. Excavation
  12. ``
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`` 1. Choosing a site Top
`` A pond or other water feature will be the highlight of your landscape. `` Careful consideration should be given to the location you choose. `` We recommend choosing a site which can be enjoyed from inside your `` home as well as outdoors.
`` As most of us live in climates which cannot be used for outdoor living `` on a year round basis, we suggest that you view potential locations `` from inside while sitting down.
`` You will want to consider any unpleasant noises which might be masked `` by the sounds of water. Unpleasant noises might include street noise, `` barking dogs and nearby playgrounds. An example of someone needing `` white noise would be a day sleeper with gentle water outside the `` bedroom.
`` You will also want to have a pleasant background for your pond. If `` the backdrop is less than appealing, you can choose to change the `` location of the water feature, or plant evergreen trees and shrubs `` for screening. Some other potential screening materials would be `` privacy fencing, arbors and garden houses.
`` Water lilies and lotus prefer at least 6 hours of sun, so if one `` of your primary goals is to enjoy these plants, you should consider `` sunlight exposure.
`` The sound of moving water in a waterfall or stream will draw ones `` attention into a shady corner of your yard. Quite often it is possible `` to use shady areas for streams and falls, with the body of the pond `` in the sunlight.
`` When looking at your existing plantings, it is important to consider `` the types of trees and plants already present. Beware of coniferous `` (needle bearing) trees, as they shed year round which will increase `` maintenance. Deciduous (generally broadleaf which shed one time per `` year) trees can be effectively low maintenance with the use of leaf `` netting in the autumn. If leaf litter is going to be a problem, a `` skimmer box can greatly reduce the maintenance of your pond. In addition, `` some trees and plants are poisonous to fish and you should avoid `` building a fish pond where litter from these can enter the pond system.
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`` 2. The lay of the land Top
`` Natural slopes are wonderful for watercourses & falls, helping `` to create the illusion that the waterscape is natural. Caution should `` be used in planning so that runoff does not enter the water course. `` This is especially important with fish ponds. Quite often chemicals `` are used to control weeds and pests (such as slug bait) and fertilizer `` is used on lawns or surrounding plantings. Chemical poisons can and `` do kill fish, often in a fairly short time. Fertilizers entering `` the water will contribute to algae growth in the pond.
`` French drains or perforated pipe can be used to eliminate or reduce `` groundwater runoff in fish ponds or to keep groundwater from floating `` liners. Standing groundwater can easily become a large problem with `` preformed ponds, actually floating them out of the ground.
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`` 3. Size and Shape Top
`` It is important to give careful consideration to the purpose of your `` water feature. Will it be a home for fish? Will it be primarily for `` plants? Is it used to mask unwanted noise? Will it be natural? Will `` it be formal? Chances are, you want it to fulfill more than one purpose. `` It is best to have this purpose decided before the digging begins.
`` A garden hose can be used to outline a general shape for the pond.
`` Be careful of extreme curves: they can make laying the liner difficult. `` You should also be careful of creating very narrow spaces, such as `` streams.
`` Bigger is usually better and most people wish their pond was bigger, `` not smaller. Ponds always look smaller when they are finished and `` landscaped. It usually does not cost significantly more to increase `` the size at the beginning. One thing to keep in mind, however, is `` that filtration systems are quite often designed for ponds under `` 3500 gallons. To increase your feature above this can add considerably `` to the cost.
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`` 4. Scale and perspective Top
`` The perspective and relationship between the size of your feature `` and waterfalls is very important. Tall waterfalls go best with big `` ponds; low waterfalls generally are better with small ponds. Not `` only does this provide for the proper reservoir of water for the `` project, but the balance and scale will also look better.
`` A pond with a large surface area will show less evaporation loss, `` a critical point with large boisterous waterfalls. Most of the water `` loss is due to splash out or from the waterfalls and streams, not `` from holes in the liner.
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`` 5. Size requirements Top
`` Ponds designed for fish should be at least 24, but preferably 30-36 `` deep. There is little need to dig deeper than 4 feet except in extremely `` cold climates.
`` Water gardens designed for plants with no fish can be as shallow `` as 18; however those 24 deep will have a nicer, more natural appearance.
`` We encourage you to keep in mind that a large percentage of pond `` owners change their minds within months and decide to add fish. For `` this reason alone, you should consider a slightly deeper pond, and `` plan for a location where a filtration system could be added.
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`` 6. ExcavationTop
`` Ponds designed for fish should be at least 24, but preferably 30-36 `` deep. There is little need to dig deeper than 4 feet except in extremely `` cold climates.
`` Water gardens designed for plants with no fish can be as shallow `` as 18; however those 24 deep will have a nicer, more natural appearance.
`` We encourage you to keep in mind that a large percentage of pond `` owners change their minds within months and decide to add fish. For `` this reason alone, you should consider a slightly deeper pond, and `` plan for a location where a filtration system could be added.
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|27-May-2003|2850 Active|Page|default|pondtips|||pondtips||default||`` `` `` ``
``

Pond Tips

``

Getting Your Feet Wet !
`` Water Garden Basics

``

Water Gardening is one of the fastest growing sectors of the gardening `` field. The sights and sounds of moving water and fish can greatly enhance `` every garden. At Downs By The Pond we are pleased to be able to help you `` make your pond dreams come true.

``

Happy Ponding
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Preparing for a Pond

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    ``
  1. Choosing a site
  2. ``
  3. The lay of the land
  4. ``
  5. Size and Shape
  6. ``
  7. Scale and perspective
  8. ``
  9. Size requirements
  10. ``
  11. Excavation
  12. ``
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Water Containment

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  1. Preformed vs. Liner vs. Concrete
  2. ``
  3. Measuring for liner
  4. ``
  5. Underlayment
  6. ``
  7. Lining
  8. ``
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Waterfall Basics

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    ``
  1. Waterfall
  2. ``
  3. Support for the waterfall rocks
  4. ``
  5. Mortar & Spray Foam
  6. ``
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Making the water flow

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  1. Pumps & Plumbing
  2. ``
  3. Head pressure and friction loss
  4. ``
  5. Submersible or Inline Pumps
  6. ``
  7. Plumbing- Flexible Tubing and Rigid Pipe
  8. ``
  9. Filtration
  10. ``
  11. Ultraviolet Sterilizers
  12. ``
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Plants

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  1. Oxygenators
  2. ``
  3. Marginal or Bog Plants
  4. ``
  5. Deep Water Plants
  6. ``
  7. Free Floating Plants
  8. ``
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Fish

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  1. Bring a pond to life
  2. ``
  3. Gambusia
  4. ``
  5. Comets or Goldfish
  6. ``
  7. Shubunkin
  8. ``
  9. Koi
  10. ``
  11. Care
  12. ``
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Problem Solving

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  1. Green Water and Other Algae
  2. ``
  3. Leaks
  4. ``
  5. Predators
  6. ``
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|27-May-2003|2851 Active|Page|default|wcont|||wcont||default||`` `` `` ``
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Pond Tips

``
index ``
``

Water Containment

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    ``
  1. Preformed vs. Liner vs. Concrete
  2. ``
  3. Measuring for liner
  4. ``
  5. Underlayment
  6. ``
  7. Lining
  8. ``
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`` 1. Preformed vs. Liner `` vs. Concrete Top
`` Preformed ponds tend to be shallow, under 24, and this makes any `` fish easy targets for predators. As small preformed ponds are usually `` much less expensive than larger preformed ponds, people often settle `` for a pond smaller than they wanted. Careful excavation and backfilling `` is critical when installing preformed ponds. If not properly installed, `` preformed ponds will warp and any unevenness will be highly noticeable. `` Proper care needs to be used in supporting any rock which rim the `` pond, as the weight of this rock can often cause the plastic to warp.
`` A flexible liner allows for flexibility and creativity of design. `` A more natural pond can be created, and greater depth and size are `` possible. Liners also tend to be more economical, especially in medium `` to large ponds. Since the water will always be level, any adjustments `` for existing contours of the land can be done before rocks are placed. `` Fish and plants can be added sooner than if concrete is used.
`` PVC liner is usually 30 mil or less in thickness. It does not have `` much flexibility, causing it to be harder to install. It may become `` brittle with age, and is very difficult to re-use, should you desire `` to change the shape of your pond. A shorter life expectancy is common, `` and the usually textured surface makes it hard to repair.
`` EPDM liner has a standard density (or weight) of 45 mil. It is flexible `` and easy to join. Since the liner comes up to 50 feet wide, joining `` is at a minimum. The liner is easy to repair using the same seaming `` materials as patches, should it become torn. EPDM is long lasting, `` warranted for 20 yrs., and has a 50 yr. life expectancy.
`` Concrete can also be used to make a pond. Special techniques are `` required, and it will also need to be sealed so that lime does not `` leach into the pond. Care should be given to use a liner underneath, `` as settling or erosion can cause the pond to crack. It is best to `` wait 6 months or more in an unsealed pond before adding fish and `` plants
`` Bentonite is a clay product which can be rototilled into large farm `` ponds. The water is usually somewhat murky, as fish swimming in the `` pond will stir up silt on the bottom. We do not recommend bentonite `` for most ponds. The additional work of tilling in the product will `` usually be break even in cost with a good liner.
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`` 2. Measuring for liner `` Top
`` Once the pond is dug to your satisfaction, it is time to measure `` for a pond liner. Using a long tape measure (or a soft cord which `` can be measured), follow the contours along the longest length and `` greatest width of the pond. Use care to run the tape through the `` deepest place in the pond. These measurements may be double checked `` by using top measurements and depth. The formula is:
`` length + 2 x(depth) + 2 feet
`` width + 2x(depth) + 2 feet
`` This will give you minimum liner requirements. The same methods are `` used when estimating liners for streams, waterfalls and additional `` ponds.
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3.Underlayment `` Top
`` It is recommended to use some type of cushioning under the liner. `` Underlayment felt, sand, or a combination of both can be used to `` cushion the liner and protect against rocks & roots. Underlayment `` felt is easy to work with and is sold by the lineal foot.
`` Sand can be used on the bottom and shelves. Use a layer 2-3 inches `` deep on the bottom. This will provide cushioning when walking in `` the pond. In larger pools, we usually use sand on the bottom, and `` felt on the sides.
`` Economical alternatives that can be used are old blankets and old `` carpet with the nap side down. Newspaper layers can be used, but `` are hard to keep in place unless they are kept wet to prevent them `` blowing away.
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4.Lining `` Top
`` Once underlayment is placed in the excavation, it is time to place `` the liner in the hole. Larger pieces can be unrolled across the bottom, `` and then unfolded up the sides. Many times there will be writing `` on the liner. We try to put this side down. Fish can't read, and `` it is distracting to the final project if any writing is left exposed.
`` After the liner is unfolded, smooth it as much as possible and then `` begin to add water. This water will help hold the wrinkles out and `` the folds flat. You may want to place rocks on the folds to keep `` them in place. Do not over stretch the liner. As the water fills `` the pond it will settle into the excavation.
`` If you will be using gravel on the bottom, do so before filling the `` pond to the top. You can then rinse out the dirty water before continuing `` to fill your pond.
`` Let the pond sit for at least 24 hours, so that the liner will settle `` before trimming edges.
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|27-May-2003|2852 Active|Page|default|wbasics|||wbasics||default||`` `` `` ``
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Pond Tips

``
index ``
``

Waterfall Basics

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    ``
  1. Waterfall
  2. ``
  3. Support for the waterfall rocks
  4. ``
  5. Mortar & Spray Foam
  6. ``
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`` 1. Waterfall Top
`` The waterfall is a crucial area to get right. A waterfall with lots `` of splash looks and sounds pretty, but can cause significant water `` loss. Many times ponds that appear to have a leak are really losing `` water from splash-out.
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`` 2. Support for the waterfall `` rocks Top
`` If you are going to build a hill for your waterfall, remember that `` freshly dug soil is light and airy and will settle over time. It `` is important to create a support which will not settle under the `` weight of rocks and environmental conditions (rain). as a pile of `` dirt straight out of the pond will do.
`` Our support looks a lot like a stairway as it is formed. We use a `` support of 8 x 8 x16 concrete cinder blocks under the liner or platforms `` created from sand bags to support the weight of the rock. The soil `` from the excavation can then be used to backfill and cover this structure. `` If your soil is particularly nasty, use it up to fill the holes in `` the cinder blocks or a base for good planting soil.
`` Joining Liners
`` The liners should be laid like shingles, the upper liner on top. `` Clean the area to be joined with unleaded gas or liner primer. It `` will evaporate without leaving residue. Place double sided tape between `` the layers and roll firmly with a hand held roller to ensure adhesion. `` Then clean the overlapped joint. Place single face tape over the `` top and roll. Use lap seam caulk in a fine bead to seal the edges. `` We like to inspect the seam before covering with rocks.
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`` 3. Support for the waterfall `` rocks Top
`` When using mortar to seal the voids between the rocks, care should `` be given that the mortar does not dry too quickly, which can cause `` separation from the rocks and cracking. Mortar should be mixed to `` a consistency which will stick to vertical surfaces. Two good choices `` are:
`` Blue-Line mortar which is fast setting, enabling you to test water `` over the fall sooner. This mortar sets up very quickly, so only mix `` a small portion at a time to avoid waste.
`` Non-shrink grout is also a good choice. It's dry time is slower, `` but it has less shrinkage so there will be less separation from the `` rocks.
`` We sometimes mix the two together for optimum working conditions. `` Mortar and concrete will leech lime into the water raising the pH, `` so it is important to either leech with vinegar water or treat with `` Muratic Acid.
`` Spray foam can also be used to seal rocks in the waterfall. It is `` non-toxic and will not have to be sealed or leeched. This product `` now comes in black as well as to the standard cream color. Spray `` foam can be tricky to work with as it has a tendency to grow beyond `` the size you wish the joint to be. The cream colored variety often `` needs to be painted if visible since it will turn yellow with age. `` Also, many people have reported that after 2-3 years, it starts to `` degrade, and no longer holds the water in place. When working with `` spray foam, wear disposable gloves.
`` Don't forget the level! Be sure to use a level to check that the `` rocks are setting correctly. The rocks should be horizontally level `` and tilt down slightly to the front from the back for the most attractive `` water flow. Small stone shims can be used to keep the rocks level `` while they are mortared or spray foamed.
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|27-May-2003|2853 Active|Page|default|wflow|||wflow||default||`` `` `` ``
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Pond Tips

``
index ``
``

Making the water flow

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    ``
  1. Pumps & Plumbing
  2. ``
  3. Head pressure and friction loss
  4. ``
  5. Submersible or Inline Pumps
  6. ``
  7. Plumbing- Flexible Tubing and Rigid Pipe
  8. ``
  9. Filtration
  10. ``
  11. Ultraviolet Sterilizers
  12. ``
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`` 1.Pumps & Plumbing `` Top
`` The size of the pump you need will be determined by a number of criteria. `` Waterfall size, fountain spray and filtration needs all play a part `` in selecting a pump. The amount of electricity the pump may use may `` also be a consideration Newer energy efficient pumps can pay for `` themselves in less than 1 year's time, with the amount of energy `` saved.
`` In choosing a pump for waterfall or stream the rule of thumb is 100 `` gal per hour of pump per 1 width of waterfall. This provides for `` a sufficient and attractive flow. Generally 1200 gph (gallons per `` hour) is suitable for most small waterfalls, and even most larger `` falls do not require over 3000 -4000 gph. For larger displays, it `` is sometimes better to use 2 smaller, energy efficient pumps rather `` than one large pump. This way, one can service filtration needs, `` and the second will provide for increased water flow in falls and `` streams.
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`` 2.Head pressure and friction `` loss Top
`` Pumps designed for ponds tend to be volume pumps, not pressure pumps. `` These pumps are rated, as GPH or GPM (gallon per hour/minute), for `` the amount of water they will deliver at a certain height or head. `` Head is the rise of the total vertical distance a pump pushes water. `` In a pond, this usually means the vertical distance from the pump `` to the top of the waterfall. Head or head pressure greatly affects `` the amount of water a pump can deliver; increased head= decreased `` water. Run, the horizontal distance, also influences pump output, `` but to a lesser degree; 10 feet of run is equal to 1 ft. of head. `` To determine the head pressure your pump will need to overcome, you `` can use this formula.
`` Depth + 1/10 (distance of run) + height of waterfall = Head
`` Friction loss occurs within the plumbing system, be it PVC pipe or `` flexible tubing, and it too affects the amount of water a pump can `` deliver. Friction loss can be minimized by increasing the size of `` the pipe or tubing and decreasing the number of bends in the plumbing `` system.
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`` 3.Submersible or Inline `` Pumps Top
`` Submersible pumps are designed to sit in the bottom of the pond, `` and they are generally of two types: magnetic operated or mechanical. `` Magnetic Drive pumps use an electric coil to turn a magnetic impeller. `` They are very energy efficient and therefore inexpensive to operate. `` Magnetic pumps are oil-free. This is important as oil-filled pumps `` can dump oil into your pond if they overheat or the oil seal deteriorates.
`` Mechanical pumps are usually less expensive, but they also tend to `` use more electricity, and cost you more in the long run. Mechanical `` pumps are oil lubricated and as mentioned earlier, can and do leak `` oil into your pond which is very messy to clean up.
`` In-line pumps sit outside of the pond. They often are able to pump `` a more substantial volume of water. They can be noisy, so be sure `` to choose a quiet model. Their electric usage varies quite a bit, `` so you should look at the specs on the particular brand you are considering. `` In almost all cases you will want to add a priming pot, since they `` are not self-priming.
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`` 4.Plumbing- Flexible Tubing `` and Rigid Pipe Top
`` Flex tubing is easy to use, and allows you to follow the shape of `` the pond This nearly eliminates the need for elbow fittings and greatly `` reduces the friction loss in the plumbing system.
`` PVC Pipe, though economical, will often require a good number of `` elbow fittings and connectors, which are costly and result in greater `` friction loss. We primarily use PVC for very long runs where large `` diameter pipe is needed. .
`` Sometimes it is necessary for the tubing to penetrate the liner on `` the side or bottom of your pond. Although this should be avoided `` if possible, a good watertight seal around the tubing can be achieved `` by using Bulkhead fittings or Pipe Boots. Pipe Boots attach using `` the same basic process as joining liner, and are pre-adhesived for `` easy use.
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`` 5.Filtration Top
`` Filtration purifies the water, making it safer for the fish, and `` more attractive. The entire volume of the pond water should be circulated `` through a filter every two hours in small and average pools and for `` larger ponds once every three hours. We strongly encourage that anyone `` choosing to have fish install a properly sized biological filter `` for their pond. Filters are of 3 types, and many are a combination `` of these:
`` Mechanical filtration usually relies on a foam pad to collect debris. `` It generally has no other benefit.
`` Chemical filtration uses a chemical means to absorb or neutralize `` toxins in the water. The most notable would be carbon, or charcoal `` filters. Others detoxify ammonia by the use of chemical additives. `` Chemical filters should be removed or by-passed prior to medicating `` fish, since they will remove the medicine from the water.
`` Biological filtration creates an atmosphere in which beneficial bacteria `` can colonize. These filters are usually only cleaned once or twice `` a year and it is essential to follow the manufacturers recommended `` water flow rates for peak efficiency. Using a bacterial product such `` as Organic Digester will also add to their efficiency. The bacteria `` and enzymes help decompose organic matter and reduce the sludge and `` ammonia in the pond. We endorse its use in all ponds with fish. It `` also helps in large aerated natural ponds.
`` Many biological filters have a mechanical component to them as well.
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`` 6.Ultraviolet Sterilizers `` Top
`` Ultra Violet Sterilizers are not a filter, as portrayed in many garden `` articles. UV sterilizers kill the spores of suspended algae in the `` water as it passes by a UV lamp. The longer the spores are exposed `` to the light, the more efficient it is, and it is important to follow `` the manufacturer's recommended water flow rate for the unit.
`` The resultant dead algae can then be removed by the biological filter. `` An ultraviolet sterilizer does not eliminate the need for a biological `` filter in a fish pond.
`` UV lights do not kill string algae. This is a misconception. They `` can be used to kill parasites and bacteria in the pond, and therefore `` it is recommended to turn off the light for 2-3 days after adding `` Organic Digester or any other biological filter starter.
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|27-May-2003|2854 Active|Page|default|plants|||plants||default||`` `` `` ``
`` `` `` `` `` ``
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Pond Tips

``
index ``
``

Plants

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    ``
  1. Oxygenators
  2. ``
  3. Marginal or Bog Plants
  4. ``
  5. Deep Water Plants
  6. ``
  7. Free Floating Plants
  8. ``
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`` 1.Oxygenators Top
`` Oxygenators
`` Oxygenators are underwater plants which work to remove nutrients `` from the water as they turn Carbon Dioxide into Oxygen. They also `` provide cover for fish, which will help make the fish feel secure.
`` Suggested oxygenators:
`` Jungle vallesneria (Jungle val, for short) is a tall grass like plant. `` When planted in pots, it is easily controlled. Jungle Val is the `` oxygenator we use in Big Mama's pond. (Big Mama is our pet bass)
`` Anacharis (or Elodea, Goldfish Greens) does not require a pot. It `` can tend to become a big mass in the pond, but does a great job. `` (It is in our Koi pond)
`` Other oxgenators are Hornwort and Dwarf Sagittaria.
`` Dwarf Sagittaria only grows about 6Ó tall, and is slow growing. `` Hornwort looks more like a fern, and can be brittle.
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`` 2.Marginal or Bog Plants `` Top
`` Most bog or marginal plants are happiest with 2-6 of water over the `` top of the soil. A good rule to use is that the shorter the plant, `` the less water over the top. Plants such as cattail and giant rushes `` can easily survive with 8-10 of water over the crown.
`` For a more natural appearance I generally suggest that plants of `` varying height and shape are placed in groups of three, using varying `` height and shape. Lotus pots work well for keeping the plants together `` and stable.
`` Since many of the aquatic plants are natives, it is wise to use caution `` when planting them bare root into soil. Some are notorious for their `` invasiveness, in particular Horsetail and Cattails.
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`` 3.Deep Water Plants `` Top
`` Water Hawthorne, Water Fringe, Water Poppy, and Variegated Four Leaf `` Clover are among the many plants which can easily survive in 18-24 `` of water. They are happy in part sun to shady environments and so `` they are a good choice for ponds which receive less than 6 hours `` of sun. Since they are often smaller, they are also good choices `` for container gardens.
`` Water Hawthorne is a plant for many seasons. In our climate (USDA `` zone 6-8) it tends to bloom almost year round. In the summer in full `` sun it has a month or two of dormancy. It may look dead, but it's `` not. They should not be thrown away, as they will be back in August `` or September for another season of bloom.
`` Water Lilies
`` Hardy Water Lilies are perennial in nature, and they live through `` our winters in the pond just fine. They will stop blooming in mid- `` September and then put on winter leaves until spring. Look for bloom `` late April- mid-September. They bloom in white, pink, red, yellow `` and changeable (salmon orange). There are many varieties of each `` color varying in size and shape of blossom. The blossoms generally `` rest on the water surface and the leaves usually have smooth edges.
`` Tropical water lilies are not hardy (or perrennial) anywhere except `` the warmest climates, and they should be considered annuals. In our `` climate they start blooming in late May to early June and will bloom `` until sometime in October. They will quite often have several blooms `` at a time. Their colors are blue, purples, pinks, white, red, and `` multi-toned. The blooms usually stand high above the water surface, `` and the edges of the leaves are serrated and heavily veined. I suggest `` that they are like purchasing a fuchsia basket; enjoy it for the `` year and get a new one next year.
`` Lotus
`` Lotus are truly exotic, the leaves are huge and the blossoms exquisite. `` Like quick-silver, water will bead up and roll right off of the leaves `` of this plant. The seed pods are excellent in dried arrangements. `` Lotus are hardy in our climate (USDA zone 7 and warmer) and may remain `` in the pond all winter with at least 18-24 over the top of the pot.
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`` 4.Free Floating Plants `` Top
`` Free Floating Plants
`` The popular Water Hyacinth and Water Lettuce are tropical and should `` be considered annuals. Water Hyacinths like lots of sun and require `` rich nutrient to bloom. If your Hyacinths won't bloom, put them in `` a bucket of fertilizer water overnight. In warmer states the water `` hyacinths have created a tremendous problem in natural waterways. `` For this reason do not dispose of them in the wild. Water Lettuce `` tends to prefer more shady conditions. It does not bloom, but its `` attractive and interesting leaves make up for its lack of flowers. `` the root systems of both water hyacinth and water lettuce are good `` at removing unwanted nutrients from the water. Beautiful all summer `` long, they should be disposed of in the fall, before they start to `` rot in the pond.
`` Parrot Feather, Fairy Moss (Azolla), Duckweed, and Frogbit are all `` floating plants which will survive temperate (zone 6 & warmer) `` winters.
`` Fertilizing containerized pond plants is essential to keep them blooming `` and looking their best. In most cases, fertilizing in spring and `` again during the summer is adequate. We recommend using fertilizer `` tablets such as Ag-safe Aquatic Tabs, which when placed down in the `` soil won't leach nutrients into the water to such an extent as to `` encourage algae growth. We advise avoiding liquid fertilizers.
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Pond Tips

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Fish

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  1. Bring a pond to life
  2. ``
  3. Gambusia
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  5. Comets or Goldfish
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  7. Shubunkin
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  9. Koi
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  11. Care
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`` 1.Bring a pond to life `` Top
`` Fish bring a pond to life. You can almost see stress disappear as `` a person watches them swim and swirl. There are fish for all sizes `` and types of ponds, and the number and size of the fish vary accordingly. `` We recommend that fish be stocked at a ratio of 7 of fish per 100 `` gallons of water, in a well filtered pond.
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`` 2.Gambusia Top
`` Gambusia are the mosquito larvae eating fish. They are hardy, and, `` similar to a guppy, are live bearers and multiply rapidly. Gambusia `` are not usually counted in the stocking ratio.
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`` 3.Comets or Goldfish `` Top
`` Comets or Goldfish are best for small ponds, they come in orange, `` red and white, or bi-colored (Sarasa). We encourage our ponders to `` avoid adding pet store feeder fish to their ponds. Feeder fish are `` the culls and quite often carry parasites or other problems, and `` we know of several instances where entire fish populations , in established `` ponds have been lost.
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`` 4.Shubunkin Top
`` Shubunkin are a hybridized goldfish. They are very colorful, and `` usually have long fins and tails. Shubunkin are great for a smaller `` pond as they tend to grow to the size of the pond and then stop.
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`` 5.Koi Top
`` Koi can grow rather quickly and as they need lots of room to exercise, `` and plenty of oxygen, they are best in a large pond. Koi are magnificent `` fish, beautiful, graceful and available in many colors and patterns. `` They are broad in shape and were bred to be viewed from above.
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`` 6.Care Top
`` You are ready to add fish to your pond after pumps, filtration and `` plants are in place and established. It is advisable to check the `` pH of the pond (7.0 - 8.0 is best), particularly if mortar or concrete `` has been used in its construction, and raise or lower the pH if necessary.
`` Also important to remember is the chlorine or chloramines which may `` be in your water supply. Products, such as Stress Coat or Aqua Safe, `` eliminate these chemicals as well as heavy metals. Both contain aloe `` vera to help the fish replace their protective slime coat which may `` have been affected during the netting process.
`` New fish need to be acclimated to the water temperature and chemistry `` of your pond. This is easily done by adding a small amount of pond `` water to the bagged fish, retying the bag and floating it in the `` pond until the water temperatures are within 2-3 degrees. The bag `` can then be opened and the fish allowed to enter their new home.
`` The volume of the pond will determine the size and quantity of the `` fish for your pond. Don't overbuy- they will grow! A koi thermometer `` will help the novice learn proper feeding, as feeding is water temperature `` dependent. It is best to feed a high quality food for better and `` more complete digestion. Wheat germ food is recommended in spring `` and fall and growth food when the water temperature s are above above `` 60o.
`` We discourage the use of chemical additives for algae control in `` fish ponds. Most deplete the available supply of oxygen and do nothing `` except provide a temporary fix for the problem as they only treat `` symptoms. There are great hazards to the fish when the oxygen levels `` are low.
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Pond Tips

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Problem Solving

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  1. Green Water and Other Algae
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  3. Leaks
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  5. Predators
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`` 1.Green Water and Other `` Algae Top
`` Green water is one of the most common complaints we hear about ponds. `` Green water is caused by the bloom of microscopic one-celled algae- `` algae at it's most basic. String algae is a common problem in waterfalls `` and streams. It grows rapidly and can quickly get out of control. `` A number of factors can encourage the growth of algae. A few items `` to check are:
`` Overfeeding of fish: any food which is not consumed by the fish, `` or removed by a net, will drop to the bottom of the pond, it will `` decompose and become a source of nutrient for the algae. Only feed `` what can be consumed in 5 minutes.
`` Plants population: It is recommended that 50-60% of the pond surface `` be covered with plants. Especially important are oxygenators. All `` plants will compete with algae for any available nutrient in the `` pond.
`` Frequent water changes: Fighting green water by changing the water `` will only lead to increased green water problems. Fresh water contains `` many nutrients and minerals which will only help the algae to thrive.
`` Fish load: Overstocking of fish or lack of an adequate biological `` filter can lead to excess build up of ammonia and nitrate in the `` pond which in turn feeds the algae.
`` Low dissolved oxygen: A lack of oxygen caused by too little aeration `` can also contribute to algae problems by slowing down bacterial decomposition `` of nutrient producing organic waste.
`` As mentioned, ultraviolet sterilizers are very effective for killing `` algae spores of green water algae.
`` Fountec is a great product for string algae control in birdbaths, `` fountains and ponds with no fish. Because of the nature of the product, `` it will smother fish by coating their gill plates. It is safe for `` birds, dogs, cats and other animals.
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`` 2.Leaks Top
`` Ponds quite often appear to have leaks because of a noticeable water `` loss. In many instances, the real trouble lies in misdirected water `` in the waterfalls or stream or water lost to evaporation. Another `` problem may be the liner is folded too low or rocks may have settled `` causing the liner to sag.
`` Ways to identify the causes are:
`` Turn off all moving water in streams and falls. Fill the pond. Use `` a little lipstick or grease pencil to draw a small line on the liner `` or stone at the level of the water. Check in 12-24 hours to see if `` the water level has changed. If the water level is stable, you will `` know to look in the fall or stream.
`` Waterfalls and streams require a visible inspection. Turn on the `` pump and let the system run for several hours,longer if possible. `` You may now inspect for leaks by looking for noticeably soggy areas `` on the edges outside of the lining. You should also check for piles `` of debris such as leaves or algae which may be impeding the stream `` flow. In most circumstances you will find that either there is a `` great deal of splash or the liner has settled.
`` If a hole is found, it can be repaired using the seam tape as a patch. `` It is very important to clean the liner well and to place a firm `` backing behind the area of the liner to be patched. You can then `` firmly press the patch for the best adhesion.
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`` 3.Predators Top
`` Herons are lovely to behold, however they can e very frustrating `` for the fish keeper. A pond with fish should be at least 30 deep `` in some areas to help prevent heron attacks. Herons will not go into `` the water deeper than their knees because they cannot fly away quickly `` if threatened. Heron Decoys in natural colors seem to be more of `` a deterrent than bronze cranes, but either should be moved occasionally. ``
`` Raccoons can tear apart a pond quickly. Often they are looking for `` grubs in plants as well as the fish. Shelves that are dug at least `` 15-18 will help keep them from getting the fish from your pond, as `` they generally fish from the edges. A small electric fence is a good `` investment for around the pond.
`` Scarecrow sprinklers are helpful for both herons and raccoons. These `` sprinklers are motion activated and set off a short burst of water `` from the attached rain bird.
`` Pests
`` Aphids, which arrive in late spring or early summer are the main `` problem for aquatic plants. Aphids are attracted to the color yellow `` and it is important to remove yellow or yellowing leaves from water `` lilies and other plants. Removing these leaves has the additional `` benefit of making the pond look better, promoting new growth, and `` helping reduce decaying organic matter in the pond. Herbal Aphid `` Control (by Aquarium Pharmaceuticals) seems to work the best of the `` products on the market and is fish safe. Aphids can also be rinsed `` off the leaves so that the fish snack on them. In most cases this `` is not effective.
`` Mosquitoes are becoming more of a problem As mosquitoes lay their `` eggs in stagnant water, we encourage everyone to keep the water in `` their pond moving. Additionally, Gambusia (tiny mosquito larvae eating `` fish) or Mosquito Dunk can used effectively to help control this `` pest.
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